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Things to do in Salzburg

Salzburg Fortress Salzburg Fortress Salzburg, Austria
Hohensalzburg Castle is one of the biggest castles in Europe sitting high atop the Festunsberg in Salzburg, Austria measuring 820 feet long and over 500 feet wide, with the building starting in 1077 by Archbishop Gebhard von Helfenstein. The initial design had been of a bailey with basic wooden walls, but in this city, home of the great archbishops of the nation, which were very powerful political figures, the castle they resided at had to be representative of their imminent status. That means that the longer it stood, the bigger it got, especially during the Investiture Controversy, since these archbishops sided with the pope. So, century after century, it grew bigger from that small wooden fort to the impressive and massive castle that it is today. The ringed walls and the towers were soon added in 1462 under Burkhard II of WeiBpriach. Prince Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach enlarged it even more during his reign, and in 1515, Cardinal Matthaus Lang, who would soon become the Archbishop of Salzburg, wrote a descriptive note about the Reisszug, an amazingly early and primitive funicular railway that moved freight from the base of the mountain up to the castle high atop its ridge, and is still in use today, but in upgraded condition, making it the oldest operational railway in the world.  The only time the castle would be placed under siege was in 1525, when the local community made an attempt to get rid of Prince Archbishop Cardinal Matthaus Lang, but couldn't. In the Thirty Years War, a Count Paris of Lodron increased the town's defenses, as well as the castle's, adding numerous parts to the castle like gatehouses and gunpowder stores. During the Napoleonic wars, the castle would surrender without a fight, and in the 19th century, it would be used for barracks, a dungeon and store depot, but eventually abandoned in 1861. In the 20th century, it became a prison, keeping Italian POWs in WWI and Nazi activists before the Anschluss with Germany in the 1930s. Sometime during the 20th century, it was restorated and became a major tourist attraction, with cable car that was named the Festungsbahn and constructed in 1900. That car would travel up the mountainside from the small town down below and go to the castle, which today is one of the finest preserved castles in Europe. 

Hellbrunn Castle
Hellbrunn Castle Salzburg, AustriaHellbrunn Palace, in Salzburg, Austria, is an early baroque villa of immense size, close to Morzg, the southern district of Salzburg, and constructed from 1613 to 1619 by Markus Sittikus von Hehenems, the Prince Archbishop of Salzburg, and named after the spring that supplies it with water from a "clear spring". The palace had been constructed only to be used as day residence during the hot summers that occurred in Salzburg, since the archbishop would usually head back to the city in the evenings, since there was more to do. That is the reason there aren't any bedrooms in the huge palace, but it is famous for the water games or jeux d'eau that were held on the grounds and are now a very popular place for tourists in the summer months. The water games were thought up by Markus, who had a great sense of humor, usually in the form of practical jokes that were always played on his guests. Some of the best features include the stone seats that are set around a stone dining table where water is sprayed into the seat of the guests when a certain mechanical device was activated. Others included a mechanical, water operated music playing theater that was constructed in 1750 that showcases numerous professions at work, using a grotto and crown to be pushed up and down by a jet of water, somehow symbolizing the balance of power. Each of these joke devices has one spot that is never wet nor does it get wet, which is of course where the archbishop sat or stood, since it doesn't have any water going to it and is today a favorite joke for the tour guide to play on his guests. The castle or palace is located in a huge park with neighboring zoo, the stone theater and a small structure that is called the Monatschlossi or "little-month-palace". It had been constructed in one of the months that a visitor here had suggested it to the archbishop as the best place to see the view from one of the castle's windows. When that visitor came back a month later, it was in place and fully used. It now contains the ethnographical part of the Carolina Augusteum Museum of Salzburg. This castle has become so famous and popular that it was used for the main motif of one of the most famous collectors coins; the Austrian 10 euro The Castle of Hellbrunn Coin that was minted in 2004.

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Local Restaurants in Salzburg

Blaue Gans
Starters; bell pepper & sheep's cheese with basil, pesto, pignolia; pickled salmon with asparagus mousse, chervil; pork's cheek with kohlrabi cream & salsa verd. Classics; prime boiled beef with roasted potatoes, spinach, chivers sauce; deep fried chicken with potatoes, cucumber salad; schnitzel with parsley potatoes, cranberries; veal escalope; pork escalope; roasted calf's liver with celery & mashed potatoes; ravioli with ricotta stuffing, braised tomatoes, herbs; pappardelle, sugo of venison, asparagus; calf's kidneys with mustard, mashed potatoes, spinach; roasted fillet of char, chanterelle, young peas; roasted saddle of deer with veggie salad; braised veal shoulder with risotto chanterelle; roasted chicken breast with limes, herb salad, pesto. Soups; beef broth with semolina dumpling or fried liver dumpling, or sliced pancake; young onion soup; deep fried calf' head.

Zum Eulenspiegel
Hot Starters; spinach pasta with smoked salmon in cream; fried scallops with parsley in chablis sauce. Fish Soup; fish soup with provencale & garlic croutons; poached salmon slices in chervil, saffron noodles; fried red trout, fennel veggies, potatoes; king size prawns in garlic butter with fine herbs in rice. Main Meat Dishes; sirloin steak with onions & roasted potatoes; beef stroganoff flamed with cognac & noodles; Vienna pork scalloped with potato salad.

Calf's Liver Blaue Gans Salzburg, Austria


Roasted Saddle of Deer Blaue Gans Salzburg, Austria

Beef Strogonoff Zum Eulenspiegel Salzburg, Austria

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Haus der Natur Haus der Natur Salzburg, Austria
The Haus der Natur began in 1924 and has become a multi-functional museum that focuses on local and international species and a marvelous center that serves the city and the province with marvelous exhibitions that aspire to inspire the visitors that come here of all ages and origins, hoping to explode their senses with interesting information about different parts of the natural world that encourages an understanding for the natural process and the forces of nature all around us. Much of this aspiration is hoped to be attained by the history and natural evolution of man through natural processes that have shaped and created the world we live in today. The founder of the nature center was Eduard Paul Tratz, who used dioramas and didactics that has continued to this day and is used to find the best way to present the exhibits that thrill and excite all those that come here. This revolutionary way of presenting exhibits and displays had overlapped from the basic permanent displays to the changing and rotating displays that arrive here. Each year about 250,000 to 300,000 visitors are welcomed here so the center believes they are on the right track and it seems to be. It has become a nature competent center which is involved in the scientific exploration of the province, that also includes the documentation and transportation of the specimens that are discovered, and the responsibility to showcase their exhibits professionally. There exhibitions are separated into specific collections that include; the space hall, the prehistoric times & dinosaurs, the Christian Doppler exhibit, geology & the ice age, the human body, animals, men & nature, habitats and the world of crystals. There is also a reptile house and aquarium as well as a section for insects and arachnids. In the science center, there are exhibits about energy, body & fitness, acoustics & music, physics & technology and the science laboratory. It is a fantastic venue to come and visit with all your family since the guides will help you in any way that they can with many being bilingual in English and Austrian. Their dinosaur hall is perhaps the most popular and well known, showcasing the giants of the prehistoric period with precious fossils, and more.

Salzburg Cathedral
Salzburg Cathedral Salzburg, AustriaThe Salzburg Cathedral (Salzburger Dom) is a baroque cathedral that is part of the Roman Catholic archdiocese of Salzburg, Austria, dedicated to Saint Rupert of Salzburg and the very place that Mozart was baptized in. Originally, the first cathedral was constructed by Saint Vergilius of Salzburg starting in 767 and completed in 774. Archbishop Arno would be the first pastor to begin remodeling the dom, that had been standing for under 70 years, but in 842, it burned down after it was hit by lightning. Within three years, it was back under construction, and under Archbishop Hartwig, the choir and crypt were constructed on the west side in between 1000 and 1020, and the west towers constructed under the orders of Archbishop Konrad I from 1106 to 1147. The early church had a few changes made before finally being completed in an ad hoc Romanesque style basilica, but again, in 1598, it was badly damaged and after trying to rebuild or modify the results, it was ordered demolished by Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich who was archbishop from 1587 to 1612. Wolf was a patron and proponent of the more modern Italian baroque style, already seeing the results from trips to Italy and Rome. He was the one responsible for having the adjacent Altes Residenz constructed the is connected to the cathedral today. Wolf hired the Italian architect, Vincenzo Scamozzi, to construct a brand new baroque style structure, but that wouldn't be started until his successor, Markus Sitticus von Hohenems became archbishop from 1612 to 1619, but did get the cornerstone laid in 1614. The current cathedral was designed by Santino Solari, who changed the original plans by Scamozzi, and the project was somehow finished in under fifteen years, quite a feat at the time. The cathedral sits over the original foundation, and the stones from that foundation can be seen in the Domgrabungen, the excavation site that is located beneath the cathedral, which also contains many marvelous mosaics and various other relics that were discovered when the current church began construction. It had been the Roman city of Juvavum, and many of the found relics pertained to that city, with one surviving artifact that predates the cathedral, the 14th century gothic baptismal font. Once the cathedral was complete, the artifacts of Saint Rupert were brought here to be housed. The completed basilica is 466 feet long and 109 feet high, with the baroque style still evident in the choir area and nave. During WWII, it sustained some damage, when a single bomb came crashing through the main dom, but although repairs were somewhat slow, it was finished by 1959.

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FranziskanerkircheStar Vaults Choir Area Franziskanerkirche Salzburg, Austria
The Franziskanerkirche or Franciscan church in Salzburg, Austria is one of the oldest churches in the old town district of Salzburg, built in two parts, the original Romanesque nave basilica with ribbed vaults and the nave with an elegant gothic choir area with magnificent star vaults that are pictured to the right. The first church dedicated to Our Lady is believed to be older than the cathedral of St. Virgil, and was constructed on the site of an early Christian place of worship. Abbot-bishop Virgil commissioned the church to be constructed in the first half of the 8th century and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, called "Our Lady", that is used as a baptismal and synodalkirche. It was run by the monks of the Benedictine Abbey St. Peter, until 1130, when it would be managed by the Abbey Church of St. Peter's Women of the Benedictines until 1583. In 1223, the church was consecrated, although it was damaged by fire in 1267, and subsequently remodeled. In 1408, it would undergo extensive remodeling by Master Hans von Burghausen, who soon passed away, and then completed in 1432 by Stephan Krumenauer. In 1592, Raitenau Wolf Dietrich gave the church to the Franciscans to be used for a monastery, until 1635, when it became the cathedral for the parish, but since it was a Romanesque-gothic style of architecture, which the church considered to be barbaric because of the Goths, especially after they defeated the more noble Romans, it was considered ugly by Archbishop Colleredo. That is until the great philosopher Goethe decided that the style was artistic in nature, and not barbaric, so the church, which might have been torn down and replaced, was spared and is now the magnificent church it is. The bell tower was constructed from 1496 until 1498 under the design of a Nuremberg Master builder, but in 1670, the gothic tower lace was removed because Archbishop Max Gandolf of Kuenburg believed that the tower of the Franciscan church shouldn't be higher than the tower of the city's cathedral. In 1866 and 1867, the tower was remodeled and restored by Joseph Wessiken. The bells of the church, ten in all, are named after Biblical people and related idioms, with two cast in the 15th century, named Mary, number 1, and Assumpta, same year, number 3. Every Friday, the bells toll in memory of the last breath of Jesus on the cross, with the small arms soul bell, number 10 rings every day in the evening. The two bells, mentioned above, that were cast in 1468 have been welded, but still ring boldly and loudly.

Mozart Residence
Entrance to Mozart Residence Salzburg, AustriaThe house that became known as Mozart's residence was the house known as Tanzmeisterhaus or the dancing master's house that was constructed in 1617, and was really two houses built together until 1685. The house was owned by Lorenz Speckner and in 1711, he applied for permission to give dancing lessons there for the rich and elite of the aristocracy of the city, and by 1713 had become well known around the city as the dancing master's house. The house became the property of his son, Franz Karl Gottlieb Speckner in 1739 after Lorenz passed away, still being used as a dancing school for the elite. At the time, dancing masters were very important since they taught the young aristocrats to dance and how to behave in court; which Franz was well acquainted with. In 1747, Franz was one of the witnesses to the marriage of Mozart's parents and by 1765 had begun trying to find a larger apartment since their family was growing and little Mozart needed space to learn and practice. Their apartment at the time included a bedroom, kitchen, study, chamber and living room. Leopold Mozart spoke with his current landlord, Johann Lorenz Hagenauer from the Hague; asking many questions about his children needing bedrooms and asked if the apartment could be enlarged. In 1767, Speckner passed on and left the building to a cousin, Maria Anna Raab, a Tansmeister mitzerl and didn't give anymore dance lessons in the house but instead renting the rooms out as apartments and changed the ballroom into a place for weddings and other special occasions. Since the Mozart family was now traveling throughout Europe there wasn't any immediate need to find a bigger apartment and the idea went on the back burner. In February, 1771, Leopold wrote to his wife from Venice that when they returned, their apartment would be way to small to support the family and the needs of the growing talents of Mozart. He suggested a few places in the city to stay for the family and he would stay at the Hagenhauer house so he could just walk across the square to work, and said that they couldn't "sleep as soldiers" any more since Wolfgang wasn't 7 anymore. After their third trip to Venice in 1773, the family moved into bigger quarters on the former Hannibalplatz on the current Makart Square 8. It was biggest enough for all the family's needs, as well as entertaining guests and musicians coming to visit with Wolfgang. It was in this house that Mozart began writing serenades, symphonies, piano and violin concerti, masses, sacred music, divertimenti, arias, and a bassoon concerto, from 1773 to 1780. From 1773 until 1787 when Leopold passed on the family wrote some 232 letters from the address, and received 215 letters written to the address. He would often make fun of his landlady, the Mizerl, and in 1774, he wrote his sister to give his best to the virgin mizerl, although she was 46 and Wolfgang was 18. Mozart's mother passed on in Paris in 1778, and his sister, Nannerl was married and moved to St. Gilgne in 1784, leaving Leopold alone in the apartment, until his grandson, Leopold Alois Pantaleon was born there in 1785 and left in the care of his grandfather. After Leopold passed on in 1787, the house would have many different owners, and in October, 1944, the house would be almost destroyed, and eventually the remainder would be torn down and replaced with a government house. But the other side or other house, had been salvaged in 1955 and turned into a museum, until it too was torn down in 1994. The new house, built to specifications that would make it look as it did when Mozart lived there was finished in 1996 and opened to the public.

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Residenzgalerie SalzburgResidenzgalerie Salzburg, Austria
The Residence Gallery Salzburg was first opened in 1923, just after the end of WWI and the final days of the monarchy; built to house the artworks of the prince-archbishops that had been lost in the Napoleonic wars in the early 18th century, the opening of an art school, which never happened and to give visitors and the public another venue to enjoy during the Salzburg festival and during the year to admire. When opened, the museum was quite unique in that all of the works that were displayed at the opening had been on loan from other galleries and museums; and by the time it closed in 1938, it had only acquired 30 works of its own. In 1952, when it reopened, the museum began concentrating on acquiring works of paintings from the 16th to the 19th centuries, and when the city opened the Rupertinum Museum in 1980, all the 20th century works from the Residence were handed over to keep their functions and collections separate. During the period from 1956 to 1991, the gallery would acquire many great collections and works of art, especially the Czernin collection from Vienna that is now the nucleus and most significant collection owned by the museum. Count Johann Rudolf Czernin was born in Vienna in 1757, and became a lawyer after studying at the University of Salzburg, and related to the archbishop Count Colloredo, he would spent most of his life in Vienna and started collecting in 1800 until his passing in 1845. He became president of the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna from 1823 until 1827, and from 1824 onward, was in charge of the Imperial collections. Some of the most outstanding works in this collection include Vermeer's The Artist's Studio, Titian's Portrait of the Doge Andrea Gritti and Durer's Portrait of a clergyman, both of which were sold before 1955 and are located in the National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC. The main part of the collections are now owned by the museum with loans coming in from the Austrian museums located throughout the country as well as private owners. The gallery is located in the east wing of the Salzburg Residence building that is above the bel etage that dates back to the year 1600. Prince-Archbishop Franz Anton Harrach, had the stucco work done on the ceilings, who had used the rooms for audience chambers and drawing rooms.

Museum der Moderne Monchsberg
Museum der Modern Monchsberg Salzburg, AustriaThe Museum der Moderne Salzburg (MdM) is located in two structures set in different locales, the MDM Rupertinum is found in the historic heart of the city, which is a baroque style structure that houses new concept artworks, and the MDM Monchsberg is above the city's rooftops with modern artworks housed in a modern structure, pictured to the left. The two museums contain more than 10,000 square feet of exhibit space that house thematic and monographic art displays that are from the 20th and 21st centuries, as well as photographic and graphic works of art. The Monchsberg has exhibited many international artists' works that include; Ernst Haas, Max Ernst, George Condo, Rebecca Horn, Fernand Leger, Eva & Adele, William Kentridge, Jean DuBuffet, Gerhard Richter, Nobuyoshi Araki, Shirin Neshat, Hiroshi Sugimoto, Markus Raetz, Christoph Schlingensief, Erwin Wurm, Anselm Kiefer, Helmut Newton and Stephan Balkenhol. There are over 17,000 photographic images that can be enjoyed as well. The Monchsberg sits on a cliff overlooking Anton Neumayr Square, some 200 feet, that was constructed using designs that had been submitted in an architectural competition and received 145 proposals. The construction took three and a half years, and the exterior is made of Untersberg marble that was quarried locally and separated by vertical joints. Quite unusual for a museum's facade, the chords of various arias from Mozart's opera Don Giovanni were etched on the blocks using a computer program. The museum is a marvelous venue to visit in Salzburg and contains many beautiful works that will keep you perusing for many thoughtful hours and showcasing some of the finest modern works in the world today.

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Schloss LeopoldskronSchloss Leopoldskron Salzburg, Austria
The Schloss Leopoldskron is a magnificent rococo palace and national historical monument located in the southern district of Leopoldskron-Moos in Salzburg, Austria and sits on the edge of Lake Leopoldskroner Weiher. Beginning in 1947, the palace has been home to the Salzburg Global Seminar, an American nonprofit group that conducts seminars on politics, economics and various issues for the political, business and economic leaders of the future. The Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg, Count Leopold Anton Eleutherius von Firmian had the huge palace constructed in 1736 on the shores of the large pond after he had expelled over 22,000 protestants and seized their lands, belongings and other items for himself and his family. He got this property for a family estate and gave it to his nephew, Count Laktanz Firmian in 1744, who in turn would use it to house his outstanding collection of paintings that included; Rembrandt, Titian, Rubens, Durer and Poussin. When the archbishop passed on in 1744, his heart was buried in the chapel of the palace, and the remainder of his body put in the cathedral of Salzburg. The palace would stay in the family until 1837, when it was sold to the owner of a local shooting gallery, George Zierer; who took all the interior decorations, paintings, sculptures and etchings and sold them off. During the remainder of the 19th century, the palace would have numerous owners, with a banker and two waiters who had hoped to transform it into a posh hotel, King Ludwig I of Bavaria, and finally purchased in 1918 by the famous theater director, Max Reinhardt, who helped co-found the Salzburg Festival. The palace had fallen into disrepair and needed much work, so Max hired local craftsmen and spent the next two decades renovating it, including the marble hall, the great hall, the stairway as well as adding a garden theater, Venetian room and library. He would use the entire structure to showcase his theater productions having the audience move from room to room instead of changing the scenery. It soon became a haunt for designers, composers, actors and writers from around the world, and during WWII, when Max was in Hollywood, the estate was confiscated as a national treasure and "Jewish property". Max never went back to Austria and passed away in 1943 in New York City. That same year, the estate was given to Stehanie von Hohenlohe by Hermann Goring, so she could transform the palace into a guest house for important artists of the Reich and become a reception hall for Hitler's Berghof house. It would be returned to the Reinhardt estate after the war, and used by the Seminar until it was offered to them by the widow of Reinhardt, Helene Thimig, that was Clemens Heller that began the Marshall Plan of the Mind with Scott Elledge and Richard Campbell, who were all Harvard graduate students.  The interior rooms are resplendent and spectacular, with rich ornate moldings and paintings, the beautiful golf leaf stucco ceilings and the incredible but magnificent woodwork that is absolutely amazing in detail and craftsmanship. Only the best craftsmen in Europe could have created these unbelievable rooms, so ornate as to be breathtaking in their workmanship. There isn't any way to describe the beautiful workings and rooms without actually going there and it would be well worth your time to visit while in Salzburg, Austria.   

Schloss Frohnburg Salzburg
Schloss Frohnburg Salzburg, AustriaThe Schloss Frohnburg castle is one of the world's most famous castles having been shown in the movie of world fame, "The Sound of Music", located in Salzburg, Austria, home of the most famous composer the world has ever known and vast early riches from its salt mines that helped this city split in two by the Salzburg River. It was the exterior shots that most people will recall as the Trapp villa, but currently is falling apart since it is used as a dormitory and concert hall for the Salzburger Univesitat Mozarteum, an art university. The castle was constructed between 1660 and 1680 by Prince-Archbishop Max Gandolf as his summer house and named Schloss Grafenau, but through marriage the castle ended up with the Counts of Frohnberg who would change the name to their family name. Sometime later, it would be acquired by the Counts of Kuenberg, however, its best times were around 1700, when the gorgeous parks and gardens were kept looking beautiful by 13 gardeners. There were orange groves and orchards that has since become occupied by the Orff Institute, and used as a bath house in the library that is now there. There is only a marble plaque that hangs on the wall there that states what it was used for back then. The Count of Kuenberg, sold the castle to the Republic of Austria in 1957, that started using it for the dormitory of students that were attending the music conservatory of Mozarteum. Then, in 1965, the castle became known the world over as the Trapp villa in the movie that became the favorite of millions. In the past, the castle has been restored to meet the modern standards necessary to make it a dormitory, rehearsal site and concert hall, with a meeting room for 60. It is a marvelous place to visit and there are rooms to rent there if you should like to spend a night or two in a famous castle.

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May 11, 2011